The Chouwara tanneries are one of the city’s most iconic sights (and
smells). Head east or northeast from Place as-Seffarine and take the
left fork after about 50m; you’ll soon pick up the unmistakeable waft of
skin and dye that will guide you into the heart of the leather district
(the touts offering to show you the way make it even harder to miss).
It’s
not possible to get in among the tanning pits themselves, but there are
plenty of vantage points from the streets that line them, all occupied
(with typical Fassi ingenuity) by leather shops. Each shop has a terrace
that allows you to look over the action. Try to get here in the morning
when the pits are awash with coloured dye. Salesmen will happily give
an explanation of the processes involved and will expect a small tip in
return or, even better, a sale. While this might feel a little
commercialised, you probably won’t find a better selection of leather in
Morocco, and prices are as good as you’ll get.
In recent years,
there have been plans mooted to move the tannery out of the medina
altogether and redevelop the site as a green area. However, with both
the economic and cultural impact of the plans for this district of the
medina remaining uncertain, it’s unsure whether these plans will ever
leave the drawing board.
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